On Sunday early evening I went by express bus from Incheon to Gwangju to spend a few days with Michael O'Grady, a Columban priest who has been in Korea for about 40 years. Michael is from Balbriggan and I met him a number of times there when he was home on holidays.
The bus journey was interesting. Very luxurious, reclining seats, video. We travelled mostly on the western expressway, stopping once at a service area for 15 minutes. We arrived after three and a half hours into the Bus Terminal at Gwangju, where I was met by Michael and Pat Murphy, another Irish Columban.
Michael was a most generous and caring host to me for my three days in Gwangju. The hospitality and welcome was absolutely first class. It was very interesting for me to learn a little about the history of the Irish Columbans in Korea. They came here first in 1934. Quite a few of them were imprisoned during the Korean War, and there are many Irish Columban martyrs.
For most of the Irish Columbans, learning the language was a horrendous experience; extremely difficult. But when they went to parishes after the language school, then they seemed to turn the corner.
I am very taken by the commitment of the Irish Columbans I have met over the past few days. They really did "leave everything" to follow the Lord in this country. They have given exceptional service and generosity to so many people in Korea.
On Monday this week, Michael brought me top visit an Irish Columban, Noel O'Neill, in Gwangju, and on Tuesday, he brought me to see an Irish Columban Sister, Gerardine Ryan in Mokpu, about an hour's drive from Gwangju. More about these two remarkable people in a later blog.
Mokpu was interesting too because it was the place where the Irish Columbans built their first church. It was very interesting to see the photographs of all the parish priests over the years; starting with Irish Columbans, and then switching over to native Korean priests. The Irish Columban Mission in Korea has all the signs of having achieved great success (if that is the right word).
At the church in Mokpo, there was also a museum which detailed the development of the Legion of Mary in Korea. I have been quite amazed by this. From many, many years the Legion of Mary has been an extremely strong force within the Catholic Church in Korea. It was brought here by the Irish Columbans. I tell them here that in Ireland, the Legion of Mary, founded by an Irishman, Frank Duff, is regarded with a lot of scepticism, and as extremely traditional. But the Korean experience is much different. The Legion of Mary women and men are a very dynamic movement, extremely active in the parishes, in the mission of the Church, and in the care of people. Very active in terms of prayer, reflection, mission and ministry. There almost seems to be as many men as women. It is not an exaggeration to say that the Legion of Mary is a huge part of the mission and work of the Catholic Church in Korea.
Another very interesting about Christianity in Korea, is that the first baptised catholics were Koreans who had learnt about christianity and catholicism by going to China. Then for 150 years, there was a catholic community of about 5,000 people in Korea, without any priests. It was only later that there was a request made that French Missionaries come to help with the establishment of the Catholic Church. At different times over its 230 year history, the people in the Catholic Church have been oppressed by various regimes, both local and from outside (Japanese). There are many Korean martyrs.
I have also thought of Fr. Paddy Burke, an Irish Columban who came here in the late 1940s. All the Irish Columbans I met here knew him. He was brother of my mother's sister-in-law, Brigid Coyne, and is in my parents' wedding photograph in 1946. At that time he was ministering in Galway because the war had delayed his going to Korea.
On Monday, Michael brought me to a Cemetery and Memorial of the 1980 Gwangju Democratic Uprising. He was in Gwangju at the time. There was a military junta in power, and people (mainly students) rose up against it. There was a terrible massacre - 165 people died, mainly students, mostly young men. Their graves are to be seen, each with a photograph alongside. Those who were christians have a cross on their tombstone. Then in a Memorial Hall, there is utter simplicity, and all that one sees is the photograph of each of the 165 people who died in 1980, and some afterwards.
On Tuesday, we also made a very brief visit to see some of the Irish John of God Brothers in Gwangju. They have a hospital, psychiatric services, and an Alzheimer's care unit. We met three very charming brothers, Emmanuel, John and Brian, who have been here for a very long time (particularly Brian and Emmanuel). They have a lovely sense of quiet presence and were a real pleasure to meet. Like the Irish Columbans, they have done fantastic work here.
On Wednesday, Michael and I took a fast train from Gawngju to Seoul. The journey time is about two and a half hours. But the interesting thing is that after ninety minutes fairly brisk travelling, the train goes on to a new track and travels at 300 kilometres per hour. Very interesting experience. "Bullet train"!
We went to the main Columban house in Seoul, where we had lunch (unlimited hospitality, as usual), and I met many people. It's always very interesting to meet Irish people who have been missionaries here for many years, but in Seoul I also met native Korean Columban priests, and that was very interesting. I also met two native Korean diocesan priests who are soon to go to Chile with the Columbans as associate priests.
The Irish Columbans are no longer much involved in caring for parishes now. They started many of them. Now the staffing of the Parish is by native Koreans. The Irish Columbans are ageing, of course, but are now more involved in other kinds of ministry. One of the Irish Columbans remembers that when he came here there were maybe about 200 native Korean priests. Now there are thousands. I get the impression of youthfulness and enthusiasm and energy from many of the younger Korean priests I have met.
So the last few days proved a very interesting time for me in renewing my friendship with Michael O'Grady, and through him, in meeting so many people in different places. It has been a great joy.
