Last Two Days in Incheon

To-day is my last full day in Gajung dong parish in Incheon. The weather yesterday and to-day has been sunny and warmer, very pleasant for a walk. The welcome and hospitality and kindness of this place still takes me unawares at times. Yesterday evening at 6 pm the new group of Parish Leaders held their first meeting. Afterwards they went for a meal in a local restaurant (very reasonable), and again I was specially invited because my stay here is drawing to an end.

Just before walking to the restaurant for the meal (which is a really nice feature of this parish's life), one of the women from the Leaders presented me with really lovely traditional Korean wall-hangings. Totally unexpected! The kindness to me here in the parish has been really memorable. It's surprising that even in spite of the language barrier, relationships still develop, and I have felt quite a strong affinity with many of the people here.

They know my limitations when it comes to Korean food, so last evening I was given a special plate of rice-cakes (very like rice krispies jelled together), plus a plate of strawberries. I had already eaten supper at 5.30 pm - but Koreans have get appetites, so I enjoy the rice-cakes and the strawberries.

This present Leaders Group (commissioned only two weeks ago to-day) seem to me to have very good potential. You can sense a very positive and energetic atmosphere amongst them. It would be very wrong of me to suggest that everything here is perfect or rosy. If anything, the parish groups and priests feel very strongly about all that remains to be done, and the great challenges that face this parish when the church is demolished. Then they have to find "a space" for worship, until a new church is built.

This morning I concelebrated the 11 am mass. The church is nearly full for this mass every Sunday. I never fail to be very impressed.

At the end of the mass, I spoke and Paolo translated for me. My little contribution was very well received. I told the people how happy I am to have met them and to pray with them many times; how I have very much appreciated how they celebrate the mass - with dignity, praying with faith, enthusiastic singing.

I thanked my friend Paolo (Bae Shinbunim) for all his goodness to me, and the assistant priest Antonio (Chai Shinbunim), the sisters, Susanna the cook and housekeeper, and the other parish staff, and, of course, the parish leaders. Paolo is a born leader who has a great way with everyone, full of warmth and kindness. Also he's a brilliant communicator. Antonio has the youthfulness and freshness of a newly-ordained priest, and has a beautiful singing voice. He's a lovely person; very gentle. "Shinbunim" is what priests are called here; means something like Reverend Father. So, I am "Mo Barry Shinbunim"; Mo = Murphy!

I also told the congregation how I had visited Irish Columban priests and sisters in Gwangju, Mokpo, and Seoul this week, and how I had enjoyed doing that. Even more unexpected was meeting Korean Columban priests, and some young Korean priests who were going on mission with the Columbans to South America: the full circle has been completed.

Finally, I simply said to the people how happy I was living amongst them. Soon I will begin work in a parish in Dublin, and I told them that my time here had encouraged me a lot and that I hope I can bring the good experience that I have had in Gajung dong parish to whatever parish I start working in. The words "faith, hope and love" come to mind.

I greeted people as they felt the church, and I really did feel something of a leave taking time. Korean people are very emotional and they show their feelings. Many expressed very obvious thanks that I had been amongst them for the last few weeks. A few who had some English were "sad" that I was going and asked if I would come again. I hope so. I can only suppose that my presence around the place here and at the liturgy has brought a small blessing to the people of this place.

When people are saying goodbye to you, they say "annyeonghi-gaseyo" which means "go in peace". You respond by saying "annyeonghi-kayseo" meaning "you remain or stay in peace". What lovely words of farewell and blessing.

I have been quite taken by surprise yesterday with the number of farewells I experienced, and by the giving to me of a number of gifts. Totally unexpected and very touching. "The God of surprises" - true for me yesterday.

Sunday evening, the two parish Sisters, Rosaria and Claretta are having a supper to mark my departure to-morrow.

This afternoon, Paolo has two hours, from 2 to 4 pm, with women and men who are in the Legion of Mary here. There's a very big crowd present, about 120 - men and women. I gather the afternoon is about: input, awareness, training - all to do with the Legion of Mary being actively part of the mission of the church in this parish. A phenomenal fact is that between 5 and 7% of ALL CATHOLICS in Korea are in the Legion of Mary as an "active movement". After having a look at the Legion gathering, Susanna (housekeeper) and Maria (secretary) and I took a walk through the market area for some shopping; beautiful warm sunny afternoon; and they are delightful company.

Writing this part of the blog on Monday morning before leaving for the airport. We had the "Bye Bye Supper" at 5.30 pm yesterday: parish sisters had ordered pizzas (to suit my tastes!); Paulo, Antonio, and the parish staff Maria, Peter and Stefan were all there. This was a most delightful gesture towards me. I appreciated it very much. It was difficult to say "Bye Bye"!

I have thoroughly enjoyed my days in Korea. I have seen many beautiful and many interesting places. And I have made many new friends. My days in Korea have very far exceeded any expectations I had before coming here.

I will bring a lot with me from this place.

Hahoe Village in Andong

On our way back to Incheon from our travels to the east coast (Friday of last week), we visited a quite famous village called Hahoe. Historically it's a very important place, heavily influenced by Confucianism. The buildings are very well preserved, both roof-houses and thatched roof-houses.

The village is located on a peninsula with a river running all around it. Makes for a very tranquil scene.

Historically this place has always been regarded as a very good place in which to live.

It was quite fascinating to wander round the village streets. No street is straight; all are curved. People still live in some of the houses. The architecture of the buildings has been very well conserved and gives you a good idea of what kind of place maybe this village was to live in.

There is beautiful natural scenery here. To the east of the village is a mountain. The atmosphere is very rural and serene.

There is a very old tradition here of Mask Dance Play, and on the outskirts of the village there are many face masks carved in wood. We met a very interesting dance performer (he's in one of the pictures with me), and runs a shop selling really beautiful crafts.

Queen Elizabeth visited here in 1999, celebrating her 73rd birthday (if memory serves me correctly). She planted a tree (me pictured beside it!) Also saw photos of the two Bush presidents visiting here.

Around Incheon

Arrived back to Incheon from Gwangju and Seoul on Wednesday afternoon. I've spent the last few days around the parish here in Incheon (Gagung dong), visiting Chinatown, and two of Incheon's parks. I also went along to two of the parish mission "house masses" - being held to build up the local community of catholics and encourage more people to be involved. They really are very dignified and joyful celebrations. Also the parish leaders give very generously of their time to these events.

We also went for lunch yesterday with some of the active parishioners - young women as well as a little older. Again it strikes me that the social side of life is very much looked after in this parish. Very pleasant people.

Chinatown was interesting to visit. Nothing dramatic, but a very large statue of Confucius - originally a failed politician in China apparently, who then turned to developing a system of ethics which Korea adopted a long, long time ago.

We also visited two parks yesterday and Thursday. One was near Chinatown, very high up, and with a great view of the port area. The second was a more modern and much larger park. We also had a walk along what you could describe as a promenade - brand new development, overlooking the 22km bridge that links the international airport with Incheon city. I have travelled over this bridge, but to see it from the shore is spectacular.

We also drove around Songdo New City Development. This is an area of Incheon city that is being developed on reclaimed land as an extremely high-density absolutely high-tech area. Very, very modern.

My flights home are confirmed for Monday next, 26th April. All being well, I should be home around 9.30 p.m., Monday.

Two remarkable people

During my visit to Gwangju and Mokpo, I met two quite remarkable people: Fr. Noel O'Neill (Irish Columban) and Sr. Gerardine Ryan (Irish Columban sister). They have done truly great things in their work over many years.

Noel was working in a parish in Gwangju and came to see the needs of young people with mental and/or physical handicap. Traditionally, these people were kept very much at home, and, in a sense, not really recognised or accepted as people. I suppose there was very much a social and indeed a religious stigma to how they were as people.

So 25 years ago, Noel started his movement, called "Emmaus" - recalling the two disciples of Jesus meeting the 'stranger' on the Road to Emmaus - in a very, very small way. This has blossomed over the years, and now as well as his occupational training centre, and employment centre, "Emmaus" also has a number of group homes where about four people live together. Noel himself lives in a group home with three others. The idea is that of a supportive environment, where people who live with a handicap, live alongside someone without a handicap. Mind you, these terms "with or without a handicap" are not really appropriate. I mean who is without a handicap in some way or other?

"Emmaus" has now developed into a movement that is involved in supporting the lives of about 1600 people. We spent some time in their training and employment centres. It was wonderful to see such a happy and joyful atmosphere. The kind of things being done in terms of employment were assembling beautiful "Mother's Day" kind of broaches.

Others were being vocationally trained in a kind of mini-garden centre, working with clay/mosspeat and planting. We also visited a factory where young people are very meaningfully employed. One part of the factory manufactures candles of all sorts. The day we were there, some young people were working on putting transfers on candles that had been made in their factory; they had an order for 3,000 candles for the forthcoming installation of the new archbishop of Gwangju. They also manufacture toilet paper, of all things!, because they have regular big orders!

Words can't easily express what I saw at the training/employment centre, or at the factory. One can only marvel that 25 years ago, someone saw a real need in the lives of people and decided to try to make a difference for them. Noel has succeeded so well.

On Tuesday, we visited many of Sr. Gerardine Ryan's projects. She is an Irish Columban sister who originally worked in the Columban Hospital in Mokpo as a nurse when she came to Korea. Again, through her work she saw the need of children and young people who lived with handicap or challenge. She decided to do something about it, returned to Ireland, and studied and trained with the John of God brothers in this area of work. When she returned to Korea, it wasn't just a question of applying all she had learned; it all had to be adapted to Korean culture and circumstances.

Gerardine's movement or organisation is called "The Bright Way" - leading people to a better quality of life. She is an absolutely amazing woman, who after so many years at this work, still has an obvious great passion for it. What we saw on Tuesday was fascinating. She has a huge centre, which has expanded over the years, and which provides training in all kinds of areas. The day we were there was "Handicap Day" so most of the young people were away on outings.

However we did see their factory, including a bakery, and a soap manufacturing unit. We also visited a half-completed new large building which will contain apartments in a supportive environment for young people as they become independent in their living arrangements. This building has been designed as multi-purpose, and could in the future be very suitable for much older people.

Our final port of call was to a most beautiful place: a day centre for the young; very young (babies) up to about 10 years of age. There was a most beautiful atmosphere in this place. Physiotherapy, occupational therapy, speech therapy, support with schoolwork (some children come here after school). To see the young female qualified staff working with the young and sometimes very young children was a total inspiration. This was a most moving experience and very hard to describe. It was about an experience of real vulnerability in the lives of very young people; but also a place where you really felt all the qualities that they bring to life, people and the world. It was just a complete joy to spend some time with them.

What I have written about Ger Ryan and Noel O'Neill does not do justice to them, their work, or all the people they work with. I am very struck by each of them as people, and by their remarkable achievements in setting out on a totally new course when they saw a need and decided to try to do something about it.

Gwangju - Michael O'Grady, Irish Columbans

On Sunday early evening I went by express bus from Incheon to Gwangju to spend a few days with Michael O'Grady, a Columban priest who has been in Korea for about 40 years. Michael is from Balbriggan and I met him a number of times there when he was home on holidays.

The bus journey was interesting. Very luxurious, reclining seats, video. We travelled mostly on the western expressway, stopping once at a service area for 15 minutes. We arrived after three and a half hours into the Bus Terminal at Gwangju, where I was met by Michael and Pat Murphy, another Irish Columban.

Michael was a most generous and caring host to me for my three days in Gwangju. The hospitality and welcome was absolutely first class. It was very interesting for me to learn a little about the history of the Irish Columbans in Korea. They came here first in 1934. Quite a few of them were imprisoned during the Korean War, and there are many Irish Columban martyrs.

For most of the Irish Columbans, learning the language was a horrendous experience; extremely difficult. But when they went to parishes after the language school, then they seemed to turn the corner.

I am very taken by the commitment of the Irish Columbans I have met over the past few days. They really did "leave everything" to follow the Lord in this country. They have given exceptional service and generosity to so many people in Korea.

On Monday this week, Michael brought me top visit an Irish Columban, Noel O'Neill, in Gwangju, and on Tuesday, he brought me to see an Irish Columban Sister, Gerardine Ryan in Mokpu, about an hour's drive from Gwangju. More about these two remarkable people in a later blog.

Mokpu was interesting too because it was the place where the Irish Columbans built their first church. It was very interesting to see the photographs of all the parish priests over the years; starting with Irish Columbans, and then switching over to native Korean priests. The Irish Columban Mission in Korea has all the signs of having achieved great success (if that is the right word).

At the church in Mokpo, there was also a museum which detailed the development of the Legion of Mary in Korea. I have been quite amazed by this. From many, many years the Legion of Mary has been an extremely strong force within the Catholic Church in Korea. It was brought here by the Irish Columbans. I tell them here that in Ireland, the Legion of Mary, founded by an Irishman, Frank Duff, is regarded with a lot of scepticism, and as extremely traditional. But the Korean experience is much different. The Legion of Mary women and men are a very dynamic movement, extremely active in the parishes, in the mission of the Church, and in the care of people. Very active in terms of prayer, reflection, mission and ministry. There almost seems to be as many men as women. It is not an exaggeration to say that the Legion of Mary is a huge part of the mission and work of the Catholic Church in Korea.

Another very interesting about Christianity in Korea, is that the first baptised catholics were Koreans who had learnt about christianity and catholicism by going to China. Then for 150 years, there was a catholic community of about 5,000 people in Korea, without any priests. It was only later that there was a request made that French Missionaries come to help with the establishment of the Catholic Church. At different times over its 230 year history, the people in the Catholic Church have been oppressed by various regimes, both local and from outside (Japanese). There are many Korean martyrs.

I have also thought of Fr. Paddy Burke, an Irish Columban who came here in the late 1940s. All the Irish Columbans I met here knew him. He was brother of my mother's sister-in-law, Brigid Coyne, and is in my parents' wedding photograph in 1946. At that time he was ministering in Galway because the war had delayed his going to Korea.

On Monday, Michael brought me to a Cemetery and Memorial of the 1980 Gwangju Democratic Uprising. He was in Gwangju at the time. There was a military junta in power, and people (mainly students) rose up against it. There was a terrible massacre - 165 people died, mainly students, mostly young men. Their graves are to be seen, each with a photograph alongside. Those who were christians have a cross on their tombstone. Then in a Memorial Hall, there is utter simplicity, and all that one sees is the photograph of each of the 165 people who died in 1980, and some afterwards.

On Tuesday, we also made a very brief visit to see some of the Irish John of God Brothers in Gwangju. They have a hospital, psychiatric services, and an Alzheimer's care unit. We met three very charming brothers, Emmanuel, John and Brian, who have been here for a very long time (particularly Brian and Emmanuel). They have a lovely sense of quiet presence and were a real pleasure to meet. Like the Irish Columbans, they have done fantastic work here.

On Wednesday, Michael and I took a fast train from Gawngju to Seoul. The journey time is about two and a half hours. But the interesting thing is that after ninety minutes fairly brisk travelling, the train goes on to a new track and travels at 300 kilometres per hour. Very interesting experience. "Bullet train"!

We went to the main Columban house in Seoul, where we had lunch (unlimited hospitality, as usual), and I met many people. It's always very interesting to meet Irish people who have been missionaries here for many years, but in Seoul I also met native Korean Columban priests, and that was very interesting. I also met two native Korean diocesan priests who are soon to go to Chile with the Columbans as associate priests.

The Irish Columbans are no longer much involved in caring for parishes now. They started many of them. Now the staffing of the Parish is by native Koreans. The Irish Columbans are ageing, of course, but are now more involved in other kinds of ministry. One of the Irish Columbans remembers that when he came here there were maybe about 200 native Korean priests. Now there are thousands. I get the impression of youthfulness and enthusiasm and energy from many of the younger Korean priests I have met.

So the last few days proved a very interesting time for me in renewing my friendship with Michael O'Grady, and through him, in meeting so many people in different places. It has been a great joy.

Where are my shoes?

Writing this blog on Thursday morning, 22 April, having returned to Incheon from Gwangju yesterday afternoon. Yesterday evening I went with Paolo to one of a series of "Community Masses" in the parish, celebrated in people's houses and apartments.

Yesterday's mass was in a house not far from the church and, being located in an old area of the parish, was mostly attended by older people.

The idea behind the series of masses is to build community again in this place, and also to involve more people in the mission of the parish. This will be more likely to happen when the mass is in an area where younger people (40 - 50) are living. The previous night they had a mass in an apartment in one of the nearby high rise buildings. Paolo was telling me there were 45 people present, including 7 men - and from the men, a leader was chosen. There would also be a leader who is a woman.

But Korean culture and tradition seems to require men to work with men, and women with women. It probably goes back to the influence of Confucianism.

The mass was simply celebrated, around a low table. Everyone sat on the floor of the main living area and two adjoining rooms. After the mass there was some simple food.

One of the pictures is of me with the husband of the house where the mass was celebrated.

Yes - you might have to carry out a quick search for your shoes when leaving a large social gathering of people. The tradition on entering a house is to remove your shoes. This is observed also in many restaurants. With under-floor heating in most places, your feet don't get cold! When I come into the parish house here, I immediately take off my shoes and change into soft flip-flop slippers.

Gyeongju - Former Capital of Korea

During our recent trip to the east coast, we travelled to Gyeongju for two nights - the former capital of Korea, when the country was the Silla Kingdom, and now regarded as the cultural capital. I came across an interesting description of Gyeongju: "the area is truly a museum without walls due to the wealth of historical buildings and treasures."

The streets around the centre of the city are lined with cherry-blossom trees, in full bloom. Magnificent!

Again we stayed in a state-of-the-art condo, with magnificent views from the balcony. On Thursday morning when we were leaving, the treetops had snow from the previous night which was very cold. A beautiful sight.

We saw so many places around Gawngju, it's hard to describe them all, other than to say that this place is so rich in terms of all there is to be seen.

We spent quite some time visiting the Bulguksa Temple, built in 528AD. Gyeongju is very much and always has been heavily influenced by Buddhism. Very strong emphasis on the various parts of this temple on Hope.

We then went to the Sokkuram Grotto Shrine, built on the side of a mountain. These temple areas are very hard to desribe, but they are built on a very big site; it takes a good while to get around; and there are all kinds of small temples and buildings, as well as maybe the main temple.

Sokkuram Grotto Shrine is so-called because the focal point is the Main Buddha, in a seated position. Around the temple you see circular things that look like circular lampshades, in yellow and pink/purple, hung around the place in anticipation of Buddha's birthday. Creates a very colourful atmosphere.

Sokkuram is a very peaceful and beautiful place. There are many tourists around, mainly Korean, and many very obviously come here to pray. You see that all the time.

We also visited an area that contains the tomb of a King. There are several "Tomb" areas around the city. They are vast areas (parks) and the tombs are like huge grass mounds (up to 22 metres high, and up to 82 metres wide at the bottom).

Andong area: Traditional Korean Village

On our journey from Sokcho to Gyeongju last Tuesday, we visited the area around Andong; quite inland, almost in the central area of Korea. One of the reasons was to visit a traditional Korean village that is still inhabited.

There are about 150 houses in this villages. You could divide them into two groups: big houses (for noble people, high officials, etc.) and ordinary people.

It's just interesting to get a sense of what a Korean village was actually like in the past. A couple of things were particularly interesting. All the houses rest on a raised kind of platform. At a few places around the platform, there are square openings. Fires are lit in these places which provide underfloor heating. Apparently Koreans have been to the fore (maybe first?) in developing underfloor heating.

Outside each house you see a collection of "hangari": big earthenware containers. Various kinds of food are stored in these containers to keep them fresh. This works up to a year. A favourite food here is "kimshi" - a vegetable with sauce added; quite a strong taste. Kimshi is one of the kinds of food stored in the "hangari".

Another feature of the houses is the precision of all the wooden joints; everything just slots into exact position.

The village dates back to the Josean dynasty which was very heavily influenced by "Confucianism" ethics; hence, in the larger houses, there was a physical separation between the man, the servants, and the woman. Strictly conservative society very much based on strict rules.

In our travels during the week, we came across many groups of children on school tours. We met two such groups during our visit to the Traditional Village. They seemed to look at me as a total foreigner; an alien! Then they began enquiries: "how are you? are you fine? where do you come from? where is Ireland? what age are you? do you like Korea? do you like chicken? nice to meet you!" etc.
I was literally "mobbed"! My picture must be on a multitude of these children's mobile phones!