Thursday, October 8, 2009

Four Days in Bethlehem




Writing this Thursday afternoon. When I came from Jerusalem to Bethlehem on Monday afternoon, I was feeling a little apprehensive. The biblical course had ended and participants dispersed. So there was an anti climax. Then I wondered if four days in Bethlehem might be a little long. Anyway, my four days in Bethlehem have produced an abdundance of welcoming people. I'm staying at St. Vincent's Guesthouse. For the last three nights I was the only guest! Two groups arrive this evening. I was made feel very welcome here by the staff, some of whom I got to know very well. Andrew is the gardener, chats to me regularly, and yesterday produced a gift for me: small wooden nativity scene, wooden christmas bell, and a cross. Bishara is the day time receptionist with very good english. I was around the guesthouse for quite a lot of the time (just resting up) so I talked with him a lot. His name in English means "Annunciation"! Last night he invited me to go and meet his wife, Joann, and his two brothers, one of whose names is Jesus. First, Joann and Bishara brought me on a drive up and down the hills of Bethlehem, Beit Sahoura and Beit Jala. Then we had a pleasant two hours of conversation in a restaurant. I have found my experience of Bethlehem to be very hospitable, welcoming and polite. Bishara and his family are christian - Orthodox Syrian. The most polite and kindly people you could ever meet. On Tuesday I walked from Bethlehem to Beit Sahoura (2km) to the Shepherd's Field, just to get a sense of the distance the shepherds travelled. Anyway, on my way back from the field (there are two, in different locations - Greek Orthodox and Catholic), I was looking for where I could get the bus back to Bethlehem. A woman came up to me (Scarlett is her name): "I know you from the guesthouse; can I help you?" She works at St. Vincent's! And she told me where to get the bus back. One of the things you can talk with people about is the Segragation Wall. Many describe Bethlehem as a prison. Palestinians cannot leave without permission, which can be difficult to get. Having said that, the people I have meet somehow "live with this wall", and they are still cheerful people. When you ask about the future they might just shrug their shoulders: "who knows?" This morning (Thursday) I attended a special mass in Bethlehem University for the beginning of the academic year. The auxiliary bishop of Nazareth celebrated; academic staff were present; lovely student choir, and about 50 to 60 students. It was quite clear that attendance was voluntary. Most of the mass was in Arabic; a few things in English. Great whole-hearted Arabic singing for things like the Our Father. Absolutely fabulous. Then a surprise: the choir sung the psalm in English; It was "Alleluia! Receive the power from the Holy Spirit; receive the power to be a light unto the world! Alleluia!" This was one of the songs our Saturday Vigil Mass Music Group in Balbriggan often sang; I am very fnd of it; and to hear it to-day in a Bethlehem and Arabic context. I was very moved by the consecration of the mass: chanted in Arabic by the celebrant. The language of the Lord! Yesterday morning I visited the Holy Family Maternity Hospital (Order of Malta) and the Childrens Orphanage (Daughters of Charity as in Navan Road). Both are right beside where I'm staying. They deserve a separate blog. I will be sorry to move on from Bethlehem to-morrow morning. I get bus 21 from outside the guesthouse; go to Damascus Gate in Jerusalem; get to the Central Bus Station; and then a bus to Tiberias. I have to make sure I get to Tiberias before sunset (beginning of shabbat); buses no longer leave after 3 p.m.