Mount of the Temple - Photos

Mount of the Temple (Jerusalem)

Got up early this morning and was at the visitors' entrance to the Mount of the Temple (now known by muslims as the Noble Sanctuary) at 7.40. There was no queue, so I was straight in after the security checkpoint. The Temple Mount is an esplanade covering 30 acres (one fifth of the whole Old Walled City of Jerusalem). The history is eventful and complicated! The First Temple was built by King David in 960BC. He installed the Ark of the Covenant there. It was destroyed in 586BC in the Babylonian invasion. The Second Temple was subsequently built and greatly expanded by Herod the Great. This was the temple during the time of Jesus, though it was not completely finished until 64AD. All the psalms in the bible were written to be used here. The Second Temple was the place to which Jesus came; for important Jewish Feasts, and to worship with other Jews. It was in this area that he stayed behind, and was later found by Mary and Joseph, among the scribes and teachers. It was in the precincts of the Second Temple that he drove out the money changers and traders. The Second Temple was destroyed in 70AD, but some of the original Herodian walls remain. There has bee no Temple here since 70AD; the site is largely a vast esplanade on which stands the Dome of the Rock at one end, and the el-Aksa mosque at the other end. Under the Dome there's bare rock. Tradition says this is Mount Moriah where Abraham was prepared to sacrifice Isaac. The whole Temple Area is a fascinating and vast area. It's so big that the sounds of life in the Old City disappear. In Jesus' time, the Temple, in addition to being a place for sacrifice and prayer, would also have been the focal point for the lives of the People of Israel. You can very easily imagine how, in Holy Week, this place would have been thronged with Jewish worshippers here for the Passover Feast, while Jesus' trial would have been taking place in the nearby Citadel. If only the stones of this place could speak! To-day is my second last day in Israel. I had intended going to Tel Aviv to-morrow, and then on to the airport around 1 a.m., on Thursday, but I decided to stay in Jerusalem and leave for the airport from here around 1 a.m., Thursday. All going well, I'll be back in Dublin around 2.30 p.m., Thursday, after a most memorable and eventful forty seven days in Israel, in the footsteps of Jesus ..... I wish you "Salaam - Shalom - Peace".

Citadel (Tower of David) - Jerusalem

I arrived back in Jerusalem from Nazareth yesterday afternoon (Sunday). I'm staying again at Ecce Homo where we did our Biblical Programme. I was glad to be greeted by Sr. Bernadette, the director of the programme, and to meet some of the staff and volunteers who work there(whom I knew fromSeptember). On the other hand, I very much felt the absence of the 17 others with whom I shared the four week Biblical Programme. It's unusually hot in Jerusalem so I took yesterday easy and went to bed early. This morning (Monday), I was woken by our neighbour who is a muezzin - insisting at 4.30 a.m., that prayer is better than sleep!). I succeeded in going back to sleep. After breakfast, I tried to visit the Temple Mount (site of the temple in Jesus' time, and now housing the famous Dome of the Rock and the el-Aksa mosque). There's only one entrance where pilgrims or tourists can enter, and there was a huge queue at 9.15 a.m. I queued for 45 minutes; there was only about 25 ahead of me at 10.00 when the gate was closed! Have to try again to-morrow. But there was some good news from this effort. In the queue, I got talking to a Scottish man, Alan, and we went around for the rest of the day together. We visited the Citadel (Tower of David) which was most interesting. It's a fortress that has gone through many reconstructions. In the time of Jesus. it was a much, much larger place and included a palace, where the Roman Governor (Pilate) would stay when visiting Jerusalem. It's thought likely that this is the place of the "praetorium", where Jesus was sentenced to death. We climbed the biggest tower (David) from where there were great views of the city. There was also an excellent animated film on the history of Jerusalem; very interesting exhibits of the First Temple (destroyed in the 6th century), and of the Second Temple (existing in Jesus' time, and destroyed in 70AD). I was glad to have seen it all. We had lunch in a local arab restaurant I used to drop into in September, and then at 3 p.m., went to Sung Vespers in the Orthodox Armenian Cathedral, St. James'. Vespers were sung by the Armenian monks and seminarians. Very middle-Eastern. My Scottish "friend for eight hours to-day" is off to Galilee to-morrow. I'll try for the Temple Mount again.

Nazareth

A busy town. Population is 60,000. 60% are christian arab; the remainder moslem arab. Very unusual for a big town in Israel. I saw only one Jew here wearing his kippa. No soldiers to be seen. The towering Catholic Basilica of the Annunciation dominates the centre of town. I feel more drawn to the very small Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation; it's near the site of what was once the town well. There's a tradition that the angel came to Mary while she was drawing water from the well. What's preserved in Nazareth, in a number of places, is really the meaning of the Annunciation: that God is in our midst; with us; within us. Nazareth is also the place where Jesus grew up, went to school in the synagogue, spent "30 obscure years" as a builder's apprentice. From my reading it seems more accurate to regard Joseph as an Artisan; an all-purpose village builder. By the way, he was about 17/18 at the time of Jesus' birth; Mary would have been about 16/17. Near where I'm staying, in the middle of the souks, as the "Synagogue Church". It's a Crusader building (now a catholic church). Late tradition (12th century) regards it as having been originally a synagogue (much later than Jesus' time). What's important about this place is that the memory is preserved of Jesus' coming to the synagogue in Nazareth; and especially the time he was given the Book of Isaiah to read (Luke 4); after which he was threatened with being taken to the brow of a cliff and thrown off. This would have been the Jewish punishment for blasphemy. Jesus escaped them and headed for Capernaum. By the way, the receptionist at Casa Nova where I stayed - his name is Osama. I mistakenly called him Obama on one occasion. I went from Nazareth to Jerusalem on Sunday morning for my last few days in Israel. (Top left photo: Catholic Basilica; Top right: Greek Church; Below: interior of the Synagogue Church).

Moving on from Tabgha

Left Tabgha for Nazareth on Friday. Couldn't find an internet cafe in Nazareth, so no blogs. It's hard to adequately describe my four days in Tabgha; Capernaum, Mount of Beatitudes and Primacy of Peter all within walking (or climbing!) distance, and all beside the Lake of Galilee. I think it was staying at the Benedictine Monastery that made my stay so enjoyable. The monastery is a superbly serene and peaceful place, especially when it closes to visitors from 5 p.m., to 8 a.m. There's a stillness, calm and certainly you feel a reassuring Presence during those hours. Two monks were there, Zacharias and Matthias; a few others were away. They're quite unconventional. For Vespers and Night Prayer, and around the monastery during the day, they dress in shorts. They turn their hands to anything that needs to be done: the gardens, shop, church, even hard manual labour at times. Lauds, Mass, Vespers and Night Prayer were call celebrated with a most impressive simplicity, dignity, and, above all, with an obvious faith. There's a community of five Benedictine sisters (Filipinos). They live in their own house in the monastery grounds. One of them, Sr. Salve, works at the monastery, looking after groups of visiting pilgrims. The others look after an adjoining Pilgrim House. They were so friendly, cheerful and full of lightness of spirit. When I was leaving, one of them came to me with a card, signed by all five of them, wishing me "Saleem - Shalom - Peace" and thanking me for my "gentle presence" amongst the community at Tabgha! There's about six volunteers, mainly young Germans, who do all kinds of work around the monastery. Most are young and do it as a community service, in place of military service at home. Very nice group. Another feature of the monastery is an outreach to handicapped people. There's a separate building and facilities for them. I was sorry to leave Tabgha after four very happy days there. It was right in the heart of the Galilee of the gospels; full of meaning and inspiration. The peacefulness was amazing; the environment very beautiful; and the liturgy celebrated with great meaning. (The first photograph is of the Monastery church at night; my favourite time there; the second is a quote from the scripture and from St. Benedict.)

Orthodox Jewish People at prayer near a beach!

Coming back from Capernaum yesterday, I passed the steps leading down to a small beach. Went down to the beach for a while. Then after coming back up the steps to the road, at around 5 p.m., there was this group of Orthodox Jews facing towards Jerusalem and praying.

Capernaum and the "Primacy of Peter"

The words of St. Matthew's Gospel resound here: "Leaving Nazareth Jesus went and settled in Capernaum beside the lake". The town was quite a large one in the time of Jesus. What you see there now are excavations of a reasonably small but still very significant site: the synagogue (later than Jesus' time), (see photo) and the remains of houses from biblical times, including the house of Peter's mother in law (over which a modern church has been built). I spent quite a lot of time here over the past few days just reading and reflecting on the ministry of Jesus around this place. This area is where he lived. He often taught in the synagogue of the time. It's easy to imagine the daily comings and goings of Jesus. The very familiar words of St. John's Gospel: "I am the bread of life. No one who comes to me will ever hunger; no one who believes in me will ever thirst ... this is what he taught at Capernaum in the synagogue." Just up the road is a place called the "Primacy of Peter". There's a church there about which I wrote previously (see photo). Again here, it's very easy for the gospel words to Peter to come really alive: "Feed my lambs ... Look after my sheep ... Follow me." These places are very special. Both are right on the Lake of Galilee. What more can you say?

Sunset and Sunrise at Tabgha on the Lake of Galilee

Took a photo of sunset yesterday evening; and got up at 5 a.m., to-day for sunrise. Don't quite know how the photos will appear. Couldn't wait for the full sunrise because it came to 5.55 a.m., and I like to be present for Lauds and Mass at 6. Anyway! The following is a Prayer for Travellers from a Jewish Prayer Book which I have been using these days:

May the God who called our Father Abraham

to journey into the unknown,

and guarded him and blessed him,

protect me too and bless my journey.

May his confidence support me,

may his Spirit be with me on the way,

and may he lead me back to my home in peace.

Those I love, I commend to his care.

He is with them, I shall not fear.

As for myself,

may his presence be my companion,

so that blessing may come to me

and to everyone I meet.

Blessed are you, Lord,

whose presence travels with his people.

Monastery at Tabgha & "Primacy of Peter"

Got up at 5.30 this morning. No problem! Asleep at 9.30 last night. Lauds and Mass at 6 a.m. Breakfast at 7. I had washing out on the line at 8! On the bus for Tiberias at 8.45, and thanks to the advice of my neice Sarah Jane, I succeeded in getting money from my visa card by bringing my passport to the bank. On the bus, we passed by Magdala, home town of Mary Magdalene. It's almost totally submerged by water now. Last evening, the evening meal at 6.30 was taken in silence, as is Benedictine custom. There was reading during it, in German - something to do with Islam, I think. I have made friends with the two monks, Fr. Zacarias and Fr. Mattias. Zacarias is 74 to-day, Mattias is about 50. Both were parish priests before joining the Benedictines and coming here. Another friend is the resident sister, Sr. Salve (= Salvation). We had Night Prayer at 8 p.m., last night with the monks and some of the voluntary helpers. There was a very warm and sacred Benedictine ritual at the end; Fr. Zacarias blessed the mosaic of the Loaves and Fishes (in front of the altar), and then those of us present, with holy water. After that we all went to gather near an icon of Mary and the Child, and sung the Salve Regina (Hail Holy Queen). Very spiritual moment. I ended the evening by sitting at "the quiet place" by the Lake. Absolutely still. All you could hear was the sound of water, and the branches of trees blowing in the gentle breeze. Right beside the Monastery is a location called the "Primacy of Peter". There's a small church there built on the remains of a 4th century church, and built on a rock that juts out into the Lake. Part of the rock forms the sanctuary of the church. The gospel often mentions Jesus getting into a boat (presumably from a harbour) and then going out a little, and speaking to the people gathered on the shore. The Primacy of Peter is the kind of place this might well have happened. Here is remembered the Risen Jesus appearing to the disciples and his words with Peter: "Do you love me? ... Feed my lambs ... Feed my sheep ... Follow me!" (Pictures: The Icon of Mary and the Child; a better picture of the Monastery at Tabgha; the famous 4th century mosaic of the Loaves and Fishes).

TABGHA: Benedictine Monastery

Two monks, some Filipino sisters, and a few young German volunteers are making me feel welcome here. The monastery, 14km north of Tiberias, is right beside the Sea or Lake of Galilee. There's a beautiful sheltered altar with the bark of trees around it for seating, right at the lakeside. The Basilica keeps the memory of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes. The miracle is thought to have taken place on the other side of the lake, but difficult access meant it was located here as regards a living memory. There's a reconstruction of a 5th century Byzantine church, and the remains of 4th century mosaics of the loaves and fishes can be seen in front of the altar. Tabgha is also regarded as "the lonely place" to which Jesus often came alone. There are writings about Tabgha from as early as 383AD. There's a stream running through the monastery gardens from a spring into the Sea (Lake) of Galilee. I rose early to-day, joining the small community for lauds and mass at 6 a.m. All the liturgy here is in German, but one of the Filipino sisters has kindly given me the texts in English. There's a huge difference here during the day as compared with evening and early morning. During the day, there are bus loads of pilgrims. Then from 5 p.m., to 8 a.m., it's only us who live here! After breakfast I climbed the Mount of the Beatitudes (about 45 minutes and quite steep). We were here in mid-September but to-day I approached it from the other side. Plenty of pilgrims around, but you can find a quiet place simply "to be" with the gospel of the beatitudes. Came down to Tiberias this afternoon for an hour (including internet cafe). No internet access in the monastery; I would not like to ask! Pictures show the lakeside altar; view of the Mount of the Beatitudes on the way up; view from the hill/mountain of the Benedictine Monastery at Tabgha.

Sea of Galilee

As it turned out, I had a very relaxing day to-day (Sunday). Plenty of people around. My clothing supply is declining, so I set about getting 5 cheap teeshirts and a pair of shorts. Then had an Israeli breakfast: scrambled egg, cheese, tuna, hot rolls and coffee. Being a creature of habit I returned to the same place this evening to eat. The afternoon became really hot; I had to seek refuge in my air conditioned hotel room. Ventured out again around 4 p.m. Went to the Bus Station to check out my bus for Nazareth on Friday. Spent the rest of the afternoon and early evening around the promenade; looking out on the Sea of Galilee; watching men fishing; watching the world pass by. There's a lot of people around to-day, mainly Jewish people on holidays. Most are secular Jews (men wear ordinary clothes and the skull-cap); some are Orthodox Jews: the men wear white shirts and black clothes, with white tassles from the belt. Going to the Benedictine Monastery at Tabgha to-morrow. It's in an isolated place (near Capernaum and the Mount of Beatitudes). So, unless I decide to come down to Tiberias some afternoon, there might not be a blog for the next 4/5 days. Sea of Galilee .... beautiful!

Bethlehem - Mothers & Children

Every year in Balbriggan, we did a church gate collection on the Sunday after Christmas (Feast of the Holy Family) to support the Holy Family Hospital in Bethlehem. I knew it was providing very important maternity care for the West Bank and needed support to pay its way. When I visited a few days ago, I'm much better informed. I was shown around by a Belgian volunteer doctor, Jacques Keutgen. Briefly, the hospital was founded in 1882 by the Daughters of Charity (French Sisters). Cutting a long story short (wars, etc.) the Order of Malta took the hospital over in 1985. 3500 deliveries take place each year. The hospital has the only intensive care unit for babies in the West Bank. Mothers of all religions are looked after (christian and moslem). The area served is very big (takes in Bethlehem, Ramallah, Hebron, and the Desert). The hospital also trains Palestinian nurses and doctors, and has help in this from Ireland. A travelling ambulance crew goes out to the Bedouin camps in the Judean Desert where people live in tents and shacks, with no services. (I have seen such a camp in the desert outside Jerusalem). Interestingly, the hospital has its own oxygen factory! Delays at the checkpoint getting supplies through necessitated this. 75% of the hospital employees are local christians, and 70% of deliveries are from Bethlehem. The hospital is state of the art. It provides a vital service to the West Bank where people are generally poor and cut off from the outside world; huge unemployment (70%) and no social security or medical insurance. The hospital relies on support from the Order of Malta, and other contributions (like the Church Gate Collection in Balbriggan!) to cover 55% of its running costs. Alongside the hospital is the Holy Family Childrens Home run by the Daughters of Charity. It cares for 60 children, some babies; poor, abandoned, orphans, children taken into care. I met a young American doing 6 months voluntary work feeding and looking after children. Both the Hospital and the Orphanage have a lovely sense of peace and calm. Nobody running around here with charts! There's no doubt about it ... the Order of Malta, Daughters of Charity, and the Palestinian nurses, doctors and carers are doing very basic and important work here, not just for Bethlehem but for the wider West Bank.

Mount Tabor

Yesterday (Saturday) walked down to the seafront from hotel around 9.30 a.m. Whole place almost deserted. Almost all the shops were closed; Jewish shabbat and also Jewish Festival "Sukkoth" - Festival of Tents (joyful, harvest time). You see many sukkas (tents) outside houses where families celebrate. Around 11.30, I met a lone Israeli Arab taxi man (Nazeen) at a deserted taxi rank. Negotiated a trip with him (3 hours) to Mount Tabor for $100 (around 70 euro). We had a spectacular drive (30 km) from Tiberias. In the distance you can see Nazareth and Cana. Very biblical! Mount Tabor is 588 metres high. Buses have to stop quite a distance from the top (walking time 40 minutes), but cars can go right to the top. I had an hour on Mount Tabor. There's a catholic basilica and a greek church there (both closed because it was Saturday). However, that didn't bother me too much. I sat and read the gospel of the transfiguration of Jesus: on "a high mountain apart". Mt. Tabor is certainly that. There's no certainty that this was the place of the gospel event, but christian tradition located the story here in the 3rd century. There are beautiful views of all the surrounding countryside and towns. After Mt. Tabor, we stopped in the local village and I had a sandwich at a local arab cafe. Very friendly people. Came back to Tiberias around 3.30 p.m., had a rest in the hotel, and washed a few clothes in the sink! I went to mass in St. Peter's (local catholic parish church, built in 1100, in the shape of a boat, upside down). It's now Sunday noon, and Tiberias is back to normal with loads of people around. Thank God! I went to mass in St. Peter's at 8.30. Small congregation, but many speak english. I had coffee with some of them after mass. One of them, Paul, has offered to drive me to my next stop tomorrow at 1 p.m. - the Benedictine Monastery at Tabgha - the place where the memory of the Gospel story of the multiplication of the loaves and fish is preserved.

Interesting Journey from Bethlehem via Jerusalem to Tiberias

Travelled from Bethlehem yesterday (Friday) morning. Got on the No. 21 Arab bus. Passport requested at checkpoint. No problems. Arrived at the bus station near Damascus Gate. Big military and police presence around the Old City. There have been problems in the past ten days with the Temple Mount. So, since last Friday, the Old City seems to be closed off. Moslems under 50 not allowed in. I was able to walk through the Old City to Jaffa Gate. There I enquired at the Tourist Office about times of buses from Central Bus Station to Tiberias. Also asked for information about getting a bus from Jaffa Gate to the Central Bus Station. To prove that some taxi men are the same the world over, I was quoted 70 shekels to get to Central Bus Station! I decided to be stubborn and went to try for the bus. The taxi men said "there are no buses to Tiberias to-day" (Jewish Festival of Sukkoth). No sign of any local buses, so I waved down a taxi outside Jaffa Gate and got to the Central Bus Station for 30 shekels. Conversation along the way was "effing this" and "effing that" and "effing everything"! Central Bus Station much bigger than I expected, but a female soldier gave me directions. Had to go through security to get into the mainline bus platforms. Bought my ticket and negotiated my way to platform 20. Bus left exactly on time. It was a two hours and twenty minutes journey (about 10 euro) with one quick stop for toilet etc. Entering Tiberias centre, I spotted my hotel and got off the bus. Tiberias was like a ghost town. It's a Jewish holiday and sabbath so most places were closed (still are to-day). However, I managed to put in the time alright for the afternoon and evening. Went to Mass (Italian) at 6 p.m., and then had something to eat. I don;t really know what the story is about everywhere being closed, and there being relatively few people around. Also, this kind of situation is totally different to my experiences so far (plenty of people around etc). Couldn't face another full day with every place (almost) closed on to-day, Saturday, so I hired a taxi for a few hours to go to Mount Tabor (next blog - maybe to-morrow). No photographs to-day; no connection between this hotel computer and my camera!

Four Days in Bethlehem

Writing this Thursday afternoon. When I came from Jerusalem to Bethlehem on Monday afternoon, I was feeling a little apprehensive. The biblical course had ended and participants dispersed. So there was an anti climax. Then I wondered if four days in Bethlehem might be a little long. Anyway, my four days in Bethlehem have produced an abdundance of welcoming people. I'm staying at St. Vincent's Guesthouse. For the last three nights I was the only guest! Two groups arrive this evening. I was made feel very welcome here by the staff, some of whom I got to know very well. Andrew is the gardener, chats to me regularly, and yesterday produced a gift for me: small wooden nativity scene, wooden christmas bell, and a cross. Bishara is the day time receptionist with very good english. I was around the guesthouse for quite a lot of the time (just resting up) so I talked with him a lot. His name in English means "Annunciation"! Last night he invited me to go and meet his wife, Joann, and his two brothers, one of whose names is Jesus. First, Joann and Bishara brought me on a drive up and down the hills of Bethlehem, Beit Sahoura and Beit Jala. Then we had a pleasant two hours of conversation in a restaurant. I have found my experience of Bethlehem to be very hospitable, welcoming and polite. Bishara and his family are christian - Orthodox Syrian. The most polite and kindly people you could ever meet. On Tuesday I walked from Bethlehem to Beit Sahoura (2km) to the Shepherd's Field, just to get a sense of the distance the shepherds travelled. Anyway, on my way back from the field (there are two, in different locations - Greek Orthodox and Catholic), I was looking for where I could get the bus back to Bethlehem. A woman came up to me (Scarlett is her name): "I know you from the guesthouse; can I help you?" She works at St. Vincent's! And she told me where to get the bus back. One of the things you can talk with people about is the Segragation Wall. Many describe Bethlehem as a prison. Palestinians cannot leave without permission, which can be difficult to get. Having said that, the people I have meet somehow "live with this wall", and they are still cheerful people. When you ask about the future they might just shrug their shoulders: "who knows?" This morning (Thursday) I attended a special mass in Bethlehem University for the beginning of the academic year. The auxiliary bishop of Nazareth celebrated; academic staff were present; lovely student choir, and about 50 to 60 students. It was quite clear that attendance was voluntary. Most of the mass was in Arabic; a few things in English. Great whole-hearted Arabic singing for things like the Our Father. Absolutely fabulous. Then a surprise: the choir sung the psalm in English; It was "Alleluia! Receive the power from the Holy Spirit; receive the power to be a light unto the world! Alleluia!" This was one of the songs our Saturday Vigil Mass Music Group in Balbriggan often sang; I am very fnd of it; and to hear it to-day in a Bethlehem and Arabic context. I was very moved by the consecration of the mass: chanted in Arabic by the celebrant. The language of the Lord! Yesterday morning I visited the Holy Family Maternity Hospital (Order of Malta) and the Childrens Orphanage (Daughters of Charity as in Navan Road). Both are right beside where I'm staying. They deserve a separate blog. I will be sorry to move on from Bethlehem to-morrow morning. I get bus 21 from outside the guesthouse; go to Damascus Gate in Jerusalem; get to the Central Bus Station; and then a bus to Tiberias. I have to make sure I get to Tiberias before sunset (beginning of shabbat); buses no longer leave after 3 p.m.

Biblical Programme over ... Set out for Bethlehem to-day

Went from Jerusalem to Bethlehem by Arab bus to-day. Bus seats about 20/25 people. Journey took about 35 minutes. 6 shekels (a little over a euro)! The driver dropped me right at the door of St. Vincent's Guesthouse. Very decent of him, and he wished me a good stay! Lovely guesthouse - simple but very comfortable. I'm the only guest staying to-night. Strange experience! Have just had a meal in a very friendly christian restaurant across the road. People are very friendly in Bethlehem (mostly Palestinian Moslems). Welcoming atmosphere; no hassle; very obliging in giving you directions to places. The constant thing you hear from them is how difficult life is here for Palestinians: no work etc. The Basilica of the Nativity was built in the 4th Century and is basically unchanged since then. The Door is so low that you have to stoop to enter. It was originally intended to keep out looters. Now it's known as "the humble door". This is a shared Catholic and Greek Orthodox place. Underneath the ground floor there are a series of caves associated with the Nativity grotto. Obviously there is no exact location for the birth of Jesus; enough to say that this is this place was chosen early in christianity to embody the happening f the birth of the Lord. It's very nice to be here in a relaxed way; plenty of time to sit around the Basilica, caves, outside, around Manger Square; some reading, bible, prayer, and coffee.

Nicopolis (Emmaus) and Abu Gosh

Saturday 3 October visited Nicopolis - considered to be the Gospel town of Emmaus. The most ancient christian tradition says this is now the Emmaus of St. Luke's Gospel ... two disciples walking on the road from Jerusalem to Emmaus meeting "the stranger". You can walk from Jerusalem to Emmaus in one day so this location (7 miles from Jerusalem) is considered the authentic one. There are a few "other roads to Emmaus"! Local christian memory indentifies Nicoplois as a place of special importance. The first christians began to live here in the 3rd century. Successive basilicas were built since then; basilicas plural because of destruction, wars and rebuilding. We also saw 1st century tombs here: small entrance to a cave into an open area (which would have been for mourning), and then six small, low caves the size of a body. Excavations here as usual, especially the walls of a Crusaders church built in the 12th century. The Nicopolis site is now in the care of the Community of the Beatitudes - a French-founded catholic community of lay people, priests, nuns and monks. Very interesting. One of the lay members showed us around (dressed monastically). The Community is having problems with Vatican recognition. Rome is insisting that there must be 2 communities: one Lay (under control of the Congregation of the Laity), the other Religious (under the control of the Congregation for Religious. All because ... how can people who are priests, nuns or monks be "governed" by lay people (whom the Community elects). Big problem for some men sitting at desks with pens in the Vatican! We attended mass at Abu Gosh. (The Ark of the Covenant was kept in this area for 20 years until King David brought it to Jerusalem). We were in a Benedictine Monastery located in simple peaceful grounds right in the centre of town. Very interesting because there are two communities of Benedictines here: Monks (priests and brothers) and Nuns; so there was an Abbot there, plus the Abbess! Mass was celebrated in French with both communities present. Great dignity and care and a striking reverence with the body throughout. Wonderful singing - mostly gregorian chant. Time stands still.

Last Day of Biblical Programme at Ecce Homo

To-day, Sunday, was the last day of the 4 week biblical programme. It's very hard to think that four full weeks have now passed with so many places and experiences. We were a few places since the last blog, but time running out with the programme, no time or too tired! To-day started with a lovely Eucharist celebrated just after sunrise on the terrace. RESURRECTION! During the mass I noticed a Jewish father and his children gathered on top of a nearby home obviously praying. Then the mass was "interrupted" by the local muezzin -calling people to prayer. This would have been the 2nd call to prayer. The first is at about 4.30 a.m., every day and usually wakes everybody. By the way, this first call includes the proclamation that "prayer is better than sleep"! One of the friends I made here left at about 8.30 a.m. Some others go later this evening. In the late morning, we had a final session, including presentation of certificates. Nice ceremony. Free since lunch time: went with someone for a leisurely stroll around the Christian and Jewish Quarters, stopping once or twice for fruit juice and coffee. Ended up late afternoon with another visit to the Holy Sepulchre where the memory of Calvary and the Tomb is preserved by the Latin and Orthodox Rites. Interestingly, the Greek Orthodox Church calls this place "The Place of Resurrection" choosing not to dwell too much with only Calvary. Early night to-night: I go to Bethlehem to-morrow lunchtime for 4 nights.