HEBRON - Burial Place of Abraham, Sarah, Isaac and Jacob

Wednesday, 30th September. We had the eucharist at 7 a.m., to-day in the Holy Sepulchre Church - the site of Calvary and the Tomb. As we arrived, a few eucharists were being celebrated at different places including a Coptic mass. Very oriental. Rest of the day off, so at 9 a.m., two of us took an adventure to Hebron: a place sacred to Jews, Muslims and Christians; venerated because Abraham, Sarah, Isaac and Jacob are buried in tombs there. There is a mosque here and a synagogue. Both have tombs which people pray before; I gather the tombs in the mosque are more authentic. The walls of the whole building were built by Herod and quite magnificent. Hebron is mainly Palestinian Arab. The Mosque and Synagogue are both heavily secured (three Israeli army checkpoints and searches to each place). There were many Jews at prayer; very friendly, approachable and talkative. Also, christians are welcome to the mosque. Very unusual as compared with exclusive nature of the Jerusalem mosques. So, to-day, we met with, talked with, and prayed with jewish and moslem people at the site of the tombs of our common ancestors. Amazing day! To-night, we will have a quite hour together in Gethsamene (in the Basilica of the Agony).

JERICHO Wadi Kelt - Mount of Temptations

Saturday 26 September: day trip to Jericho. First stop was in the middle of the desert in the area where there was a pathway (Wadi Kelt) from Jerusalem to Jericho. Resonances of great wilderness: "dry weary land without water". John the Baptist spent time in the desert, as did Jesus. Amazingly quiet and peaceful, but who could survive in this kind of desert? When we arrived there was a group of Bedouin people selling their wares, hence my arabian head-dress! It came in useful because Jericho is the lowest city in the world (260km below sea level - sweltering heat) and also the oldest city in the world (first occupied in 8000 BC!). Continued on to Jericho itself. It's in the West Bank but no wall around it, only a moat and a checkpoint. Very spectacular trip on a cable car to a Russian Orthodox Monastery built very high on the side of the mountain: "Mount of Temptations" - keeping the memory of Jesus being taken up to a mountain top and promised all the kingdoms etc. Even after getting off the cable car, there was still a steep climb up steps to the monastery proper. We had a bit of time afterwards, and had refreshments in the "Temptation Restaurant"!!! Continued on to Jericho itself. Small enough city/town; quite poor; people very friendly; small town atmosphere. Nice just to stroll around for a while.

GALILEE - Day 3 - The "Jesus Boat" Museum, Boat Ride on the Lake of Galilee, Mass at the Mount of Beatitudes, Primacy of Peter, Capernaum

Thursday 24 September ..... Went first to the "Jesus Boat" Museum, located right beside our hotel at Nof Ginosar. Only item displayed is the "Jesus Boat"!!! a 2,000 year old boat discovered in 1986 at the bottom of the Lake (close to the shore) during a drought. Dates from between 50BC and 50AD, so it was a kind of boat around in Jesus' time. Then went on an "ordinary" boat for a ride to the middle of the Lake where we stopped for about 30 minutes just to pause, look, reflect. Calm and very hot (even at 10 am). Looking towards the "Galilee Triangle" - the area where Jesus would have spent most of his ministry in Galilee: the area between Capernaum (excavations now), Chorazin (nothing extant) and Bethsaida (nothing now). Still, this is the area for the ministry of Jesus. The Mount of Beatitudes is most beautifully situated and landscaped. Maybe the Beatitudes were spoken on a mountain like this (Matthew) or on a plan (Luke). Doesen't matter! The memory is preserved here. We had open air mass which I led in a small area (tent overhead) looking down over the lake. Had lunch in Hospice (Guesthouse) afterwards. Menu included "Peter's Fish" which I declined! Stuck to pasta (surprise), salad and fruit. Then on to Capernaum: extensive sites of a Jewish synagogue (later than Jesus' time), and also part of the excavated house of Peter, Andrew and Peter's mother-in-law). Jesus would have visited often (when mother-in-law of Peter was ill, etc) and went to the synagogue here. Boilng hot this afternoon; probably 39 degrees. Then the Primacy of Peter by the Lake: a small church stands here over the site of a Byzantine 5th Century Church, preserving the memory of Peter (On this rock I will build my church, etc). Beside the church, is the Benedictine Monastery of Tabgha (where I will be staying for a few days in October). This has the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves - keeping the memory of the miracle. A long, long day, and then a drive (always spectacular) through the lush north into the Judean Desert "UP" to Jerusalem. Our guide for the 3 days in Galilee was a young Italian-born Jesuit priest who is studying at the Hebrew University in Jerusalem. He was good.

Galilee Day 2 - Sources of River Jordan, Caesarea Phillipi, Tel Dan, Golan Heights, Qasrin Talmudic Village

Wednesday 23 September .... lovely drive from the Lake of Galilee to the sources of the River Jordan. Stopped for quite a while at Banias (place known as Caesarea Phillipi in time of Jesus), place where Peter professed his faith in Jesus. This place Banias was a centre of pagan worship and you can see extensive excavations of temples/shrines/caves dedicated to "greater and lesser" deities! It's all now located within a Nature Park, so we had a most beautiful 45 minutes walk through a wooded area, passing mountain springs, and finally, a waterfall. Beautiful place. Then on to another Nature Park which included important excavated Tel Dan. Followed by a most spectacular drive right up to the mountain top and right across the Golan Heights; plenty of evidence of the eyes being kept on Syria across the border. Also a most lush and fertile area. Afternoon ended with visit to Qasrin, an ancient talmudic village - important in how the Jewish Religion developed. Gave a good idea of what 4th century AD daily life was like in a Talmudic Village Settlement; We celebrated mass right on the shore of the Sea of Galilee (1 min walk) from hotel. Looking out over the sea (lake) at night; seeing the lights of the towns around; from these places and from much further afield, the people came to seek Jesus. This was a most spectacular and memorable day. It began and ended in the calm and peace of the Sea (Lake).

GALILEE Day 1 - Jordan Valley, Nazareth, Zippori, Nof Ginosar by the Sea of Galilee

Tuesday 22 September. Early morning departure for Nazareth via the Jordan Valley. Very much downhill at first from Jerusalem through the Judean Desert. Then things change dramatically. Alongside you for miles is the Jordanian Border. Land becomes lush and fertile, fruit and vegetables growing everywhere. Nazareth (now one of the largest arab towns): we visited first the Greek Orthodox Church of St. Gabriel, built in the 18th century supposedly at the site of the town well. The memory preserved there now is the Annunciation to Mary. There was a large Ukranian congregation there at the time singing quite wonderfully in a great natural acoustic. Then on to the Basilica of the Annunciation built in the 1950s. There's a 3rd century cave there - a place that has been venerated as the house of Mary through the centuries. The first church built at this site was Byzantine (5th century). Nazareth - very pleasant place to be. Then on to Zippori - the largest city in Galilee at the time of Jesus. It was destroyed in 6AD and then rebuilt. Quite possible that Joseph and Jesus from nearby Nazareth worked on its reconstruction. Finally to Nof Ginosar, a very smart hotel in a kibbutz, right on the shore of the Sea (Lake) of Galilee. Wonderful! Full of biblical and gospel atmosphere. 10.40 p.m., Thursday and just ready now for bed having returned from Galilee at 7 pm.

Lazy weekend in Jerusalem

Writing this Monday 21 September. Had a break from our programme from Saturday lunchtime to 8.30 this morning. On Saturday afternoon a few of us visited "Peter in Galicantu" (place where Peter wept after betraying the Lord) and "Dormition Abbey" (approx. site of the betrayal). Then a walk back through the narrow alleys and "souks" of the Old City. Sunday morning, went to mass in Armenian Cathedral (8 people present!). Mass was in Latin. Simple and dignified. Then after mass went to hotel for a very unusual early lunch. One of the people on our programme is a Korean priest, Paulo. On Saturday he accidently bumped into a group of deacons (22 of them) from his Korean Diocese. They were on an 8-day trip to Israel. Anyway, a lunch was held for their departure from Jerusalem and a few of us were invited. Interestingly, all 22 deacons are aged average 27. In the diocese of Inchun (Korea) there is a kind of "embargo" on further recruitment until further notice. Sunday afternoon went right to the top of the Mount of Olives. Great view of the Old City, but also of the desert over the Mount. To-day back to lectures this morning; afternoon free; early evening orientation for our 3 days in Galilee. We leave Tuesday at 6.15 a.m.

The "Hills of Judah" - Visit to Ein Karem

Just coming towards dinner time, Friday 18 September. Not much time to-day or yesterday to post a blog. To-day, we had two lectures on St. Luke's Gospel, and in the afternoon, two hours on Islam and Ramadan. Course stops to-morrow lunch time until Monday morning, so I'm looking forward to the free time. Not planning to do very much with it - enough travelling to date! On Wednesday, we had a lovely day in Ein Karem - place of the birth of John the Baptist, and visit of Mary to Elizabeth. You won't obviously find "exact" historical place; enough for me to be around the place where something happened. Being in Ein Karem for the day (particularly during an afternoon of quiet reflection), and looking over the Hills of Judah certainly gave a great biblical sense: a few miles from Jerusalem; a village in the countryside; hills everywhere. Great!

We live right beside the Dome of the Rock (site of original Temple area). To-night is the last Friday of Ramadan. 400,000 moslems expected for prayer there!

Bethlehem: Church of the Nativity

Visited Bethlehem to0day, Tuesday 15 September. We had mass in the Church of the Nativity. Then had visits to a pastoral centre, shepherds' field (area of the shepherds outside Bethlehem) and Bethlehem University (students 40% christian, 60% moslem). Very interesting. Seeing the Segregation Wall was quite disturbing. An awful sight. Palestinian people living in Bethlehem (christian and moslem) are in effect cut off.

Masada, Dead Sea & Qumran

Not much time to post a blog over the past few days. On Sunday we went to MASADA (ruins of Herod's fort/palace. Last stand of Jewish People against Romans in 73AD). Like one of the wonders of the world. Then to the Dead Sea for packed lunch break, and a "float" in the sea. Floated alright but got a mouthful of extremely salty water. Temperature was 37 degrees while we were there. Last stop for the day was Qumran where "Dead Sea Scrolls" were discovered in caves in 1947 after 2000 years.

Ramadan (Moslem) and Shabbat (Jewish)

Friday, 11 September. The third Friday of Ramadan. Have seen thousands of moslems come and go to the Dome of the Rock and the Alaxa mosque - both right beside us here. This evening at sunset the Jewish Shabbat begins. It finishes to-morrow at sunset. To night at 8 p.m., we go to the Western Wall where large numbers of Jewish people will be praying. Also, Jewish New Year begins in one week's time, followed by the end of Ramadan. So very interesting scenes to observe over the next week or so. Picture is taken from the terrace of Ecce Homo: moslems returning from mosque.

The Course at Ecce Homo, Jerusalem

There are 17 of us doing the Biblical Formation course: from Ireland, Australia, S. Korea, Phillipines, India, Germany and Czech Republic. Some are priests or sisters; a number are married women who are catechists/religious educators. Ecce Homo is run by the Sisters of Sion and a French-founded Community "Chemin Neuf" - mostly youngish lay people (French origin).

Every morning (except to-day!) you are woken up at 4 p.m., by the moslem call to prayer coming from the Dome of the Rock (right beside us - the site of the Temple).

A couple of photos are included of people on the course with me.

First Days in Jerusalem

Writing this Tuesday evening, 5 p.m. Life has been pretty hectic since arriving here Saturday evening. The Old City of Jerusalem is a fascinating place. Teeming with people. Yesterday was a long orientation day, but there were still a few times to go among the local souks beside where I am staying. To-day we spent the morning in the City of David (outside the Old City Walls). Then down to the tunnels running under the Old City. Amazing. Then in the afternoon we visited very comprehensively the Southern Excavations on the site of the Temple. Too much information to take in.

All along our travels to-day from Ecce Homo on the Via Dolorosa, you see places like the Holy Sepulchre Church, the Dome of the Rock, Kedron Valley, Gethsamene - all around you.

There's a trip at 8 p.m., this evening to the new city. Don't know if I will go as we had to get up at 6 a.m., this morning!

Will try to upload a few pictures later.